Thursday, May 31, 2007

Wine vs. Beer

Great story on Slate.com today about the dominance of wine over beer in America. Must of it the author attributes to an easier and less class-based language about wine, along with the idyllic pastoral image of wine as opposed to the industrial image and mass-production of beer.

He doesn't mention, and I don't have the numbers to back this up but pretty sure I've seen them, that the sales of microbrews are way up while the overall sales of beer are flat. He does point to an example of Bistro 8, an upscale beer produced by Budweiser that was a total flop- and implies that quality beer just doesn't sell to the American public. These two things seem contradictory. I think people just don't believe in quality beer from Budweiser and maybe the company should not have branded it as such.

Maybe part of the problem isn't that beer is industrial and wine is agricultural, but that when you think of wine, all the brands seem small- even Gallo and Two-Buck Chuck. Beer, on the other hand, seems nearly monolithic: Your choices are Bud or Miller, a cheap variation thereof (Milwaukee's Best, Genesee Cream Ale), or a microbrew at twice the price. In comparison to beer, all wine seems snooty and hand-made and that's what's selling.

Maybe beer companies, many of which own a lot of smaller brands, should put their marketing push towards those smaller brands and brews and the overall industry would benefit from connoisseurship of the consumers like wine. Because when it comes time to grab a 12-pack for the tailgate party, you're still going to buy Bud.

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1 Comments:

Jessie Jane said...

Camper, thanks for the link to this article. Really interesting, although I think it's indicative of the standard "wine is better than beer" bullshit.

I don't buy the article's line about agriculture vs. industry, either. Two Buch Chuck is the brainchild of Fred Franzia, the king of bulk wine, just to riff off your own example.

I think, ultimately, it all boils down to marketing and positioning. The wine industry has historically done a remarkable job marketing the notion of appellation and terroir and the "ancient art of the grape." But craft beer has failed miserably at educating the general consumer about beer's agricultural roots (which dates at least as far back as wine, historically).

It's all just another snowjob in my opinion. My rather long-winded (as usual) reaction is here if you're interested.

7:31 PM  

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